Perche Manor House Trail

The Perche Normandy B&B

A few kilometres to the east – quarter of an hour in the car – from our home and B&B in Ancinnes brings us to a lovely region of southern Normandy known as the Perche.

The region of the Perche is one of the most endearing of Normandy, with its varied and hilly landscapes, picturesque villages, its architectural beauty, and especially the richness of its food and agricultural produce.

Perche Manor House

The local lords of the sixteenth century lived what might seem an idyllic existence, combining lordly opulence with the simplicity of a country life. The understated beauty of the Percheron manor houses they built never fails to charm the visitor. These old, stone-built mini-chateaux, roofed with tiles and slates, are scattered throughout this rustic, agricultural region on the borders of Normandy and the Pays de la Loire.

The Perche is also the native land of a famous breed of horse, the Percheron, and of many families of emigrants to Canada. It is also the seat of the Counts of Perche and boasts a splendid Trappist abbey at Soligny la Trappe.

A Tour of the Perche Manor Houses

Bellême, Rémalard, Villeray, Colonard-Corubert, Nocé, … we take the basis of our route from the excellent little booklet “Routes Tranquilles du Perche” available at tourist offices in the region. We can loan visitors a copy.

Many mansions located on this route are privately owned and can’t be visited, but they can still be admired from the road. Some of the biggest and best, however, are open to the public – Courboyer, Lorière and Lormarin among them

Gateway to Bellême

Bellême Normandy B&B

On the edge of the beautiful forest that bears his name, Bellême is the historic capital of the Perche. It is a picturesque town with its medieval remains, a gateway porch of the fifteenth century, arches and many mansions dating from the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, such as Hotel Bansard-des-Bois near the moat of the old fortress. See also the vicarage garden, overlooking the forest of Bellême.

Rémelard Normandy B&B

18 km northeast of Bellême is the town of Rémelard, birthplace of Octave Mirbeau, the author of the novel “Diary of a Chambermaid”. The town hall is located in the manor where he spent his childhood.

Moutiers-au-Perche Normandy Bed Breakfast

From Rémalard on the road to Moutiers-au-Perche on the right after about 5 km, make sure you see the stunning manor house in the valley of the Yore; it is a private mansion in the eighteenth century style.

At Moutiers-au-Perche, take a stroll to discover the village houses clinging to a hillside.

Villeray (Condeau) Normandy Bed Breakfast

Villeray is a typical, pretty Perche village, on the hillside below the sixteenth century château. There are some very pretty houses in the village. Along the river you’ll find a mill, and above the Villeray château with its white facade – now a hotel.

Lormarin Manor House

Nocé Normandy Bed Breakfast

8 km east of Bellême; some beautiful mansions are visible from the road.
On leaving Nocé, on the road to Berd’huis look out for the Manoir de Lormarin, constructed in the sixteenth century with three round towers. The former stables have been converted into an antiques shop “l’Atelier d’Alban” and you can wander round the grounds of the manor from Thursdays to Sundays, from 2 to 7pm.

Follow the road as far as Préaux-du-Perche and you’ll see the Manoir de Lubinière, another elegant sixteenth century manor house.

Manoir de Courboyer, Maison du Parc

Courboyer Normandy B&B

The Manoir de Courboyer, 3 km to the north of Nocé, is one of the most remarkable manor houses built in the Perche and dates from the late fifteenth century. It is one of the few open to the public and is not to be missed.

This magnificent Percheron mansion now houses the Maison du Parc Naturel Régional du Perche. A friendly team offers information on the Perche region and its history. In the “flag room” is one of the last three surviving battle flags of the “Kingdom”, captured by Pierre Fontenay during the sixteenth century War of Religion.

Down the road and 2 km from Saint-Cyr-la-Rosière, in a beautiful countryside, is the manor of Angenardière – yet another manor dating from the sixteenth century. It is flanked by two large towers.

Chateau de Lorière Normandy Bed Breakfast

The Park and Gardens of the Chateau de Lorière, 2 km north of Theil on the Rémalard road is open to the public (entrance fee – 1 hour visit) from May to September, weekends and holidays (the chateau interior is not) . English style gardens have been planted there over 150 years covering 15 acres. Not a typical Perche manor house, but an impressive chateau and well worth a visit.

Chateau Lorière Park

Colonard-Corubert Normandy Bed Breakfast

A small village north-east of Bellême which presents a set of typical Percheron houses, dominated by the Great Farm House, former mansion of Colonard Corubert.

La Perrière Normandy Bed Breakfast

Perched on a spur of granite this little village has all the charm of an old fortress, with its old narrow streets. There is a very nice bar, tearooms and a brocante (antique shop) and artist sculptor’s gallery. You can see many picture-box houses of the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. Make sure you take a walk around the church, behind which are fantastic views of the valley.

La Perrière

More Information

If this area interests you, we have another trail in the Perche based on brocantes, bric-a-brac and antiques shops on our Normandy Bed and Breakfast website – or use this direct link http://www.normandie-chambres.co.uk/antiques.html

Trip Advisor Changes its Slogan

A lot of people consult TripAdvisor when looking to book accommodation here in Normandy and Pays de la Loire, some of them perhaps unaware that the reviews should not always be taken at face value.

So I was interested to note that TripAdvisor has recently altered it’s slogan, perhaps in response to the criticism they have received over the past year concerning dodgy reviews (for example, the illegal Florence tour guides whose businesses continued to be promote themselves on the site, even after they had been exposed) and unreliable review checking procedures.

So no longer is it “get the truth. then go” on TripAdvisor,  it is now “World’s most trusted travel advice”.

Old TripAdvisor Slogan

New Trip Advisor slogan

So they no longer claim that their reviews are true.  I wonder how long they’ll be able to claim they are the most trusted?

Monet’s Garden at Giverny, Normandy

Many people visiting Lower Normandy make a day trip to visit the artist Claude Monet’s house and garden at Giverny on the Seine, immortalised in a series of paintings.  We’ve visited the gardens on a number of occasions – it’s about a two hour drive from where we live.

Giverny from Paris

If you’re staying in Paris then a short, 45-mile train ride from Paris St. Lazare station brings you to the town of Vernon, from where you can take a bus to Monet’s garden at nearby Giverny (about 2.5 miles, 4km).  Alternatively, you can also hire push bikes near the train station.

Giverny and Artists

In the late 19th century a number of American artists – John Singer Sargent and Theodore Wendel among them – stayed and painted at Giverney.  Examples of their work can be seen at the town’s “Musee d’Art Americain“.

Claude Monet noticed the village of Giverny while passing through on a train. He decided to move to Giverny where he rented a house and the land surrounding it. In 1890 he bought the house and land outright and set out to create the gardens he wanted to paint. Some of his most famous paintings, such as the water lily and Japanese bridge paintings, are of his garden in Giverny. His other most famous series of works is of the cathedral at Rouen, down river from Giverny.  Monet lived in Giverny from 1883 until his death in 1926.  He and many members of his family are buried in the village cemetery.

Giverny Hotel Baudy was one of the bars frequented by the artists in the late 19th century.  Nowadays you can eat there but be warned – it is extremely popular!  Book lunch in advance if you can, or get there early.

By mid-morning in summer Giverny is packed with tourist buses – try to visit early morning if you can, or late afternoon.

Clos Normand, Monet's Garden at Giverny

Monet’s House and Garden at Giverny

Monet’s house and garden are open from 1 April to 1 November. Hours are 9.30am to 6pm and admission is 6€ for adults, with reductions for children under 12, students and senior citizens.

You enter the gardens via turnstiles and the path leads you through Monet’s old studio, now a large, light and airy souvenir shop.  There are dozens of books on Monet, the man and his works, postcards galore and beautiful reproduction prints to buy.

At the exit from the shop Monet’s house is ahead on the right (there are also toilets at theentrance).  Photography is not allowed inside the house.

Monet’s House at Giverny

The outside of Monet’s house at Giverny is adorned with green shutters while the inside, like his paintings, is very colourful. One hallway is decorated in old Japanese prints, whilst his wife’s bedroom has bright green walls with sky-blue detailing.  The living room is pale blue with wood panel detailing in bright peacock blue.  The works of Monet and his artist friends cover the walls.

The dining room is dazzlingly bright, with tables, chairs and walls painted in vibrant yellows.  Two enormous china cabinets dominate the room,  decorated with blue and white pottery.

The kitchen next door is plastered floor to ceiling with blue and white tiles and overflows with copper and brass pots and pans.

Monet’s Garden at Giverny

There are actually two parts to Monet’s garden: a flower garden called Clos Normand in front of the house and a Japanese inspired Water Garden on the other side of the road, accessed by a pedestrian tunnel from the bottom of the Clos Normand garden.

The Clos Normand is ablaze with colour in summer, with masses of tulips, roses, dahlias, sunflowers, nasturtiums and other annual flowers according to the season.   Monet created his garden with an eye for how it would appear on canvas, and the present day custodians remain faithful to that vision.

Japanese Bridge, Water Garden

Monet’s Japanese Garden – Water Lilies and Ponds

Monet was inspired by his Japanese prints to create the water garden and Japanese bridge.  The famous ponds are dotted with water lilies (in season) and surrounded by willows, wisterias and towering bamboos.

The Japanese bridge is painted the same bright green as the house shutters.

Mulled Cider With Calvados & Spicy Baked Apples

It’s been chilly here – in fact, it was ten degrees below last night! At times like these it’s nice to have something to keep us warm inside – you’ve probably tried mulled wine (red wine, sugar and a sachet of spices heated and drunk warm) but have you ever had hot mulled cider?

Hot and spicy, mulled cider is a great alternative to the usual winter warmers. It makes a perfect drink on return from a walk in the snow, to sip in front of a crackling log fire on a cold winter’s night, or curled up on the sofa in front of the telly – any excuse, really! And unlike other winter drinks such as mulled wine, eggnog or rum toddy, it needs no added sugar unless you have a sweet tooth.

Here’s the recipe – go on, enjoy!  And while you’re on, why not try super-quick, easy-to-make spicy baked apples?

Mulled Cider With Calvados

Ingredients (makes about a litre)

• Half litre dry cider
• 125ml calvados (apple brandy)
• Half litre apple juice
• Thinly pared rind of one half lemon
• 2 sticks of cinnamon
• 6 cloves

Directions

1. Put the cider and apple juice in a large pan, together with the lemon rind, cinnamon and cloves.
2. Bring to simmer, without allowing the mixture to boil, for 10 minutes.
3. Add the calvados.
4. Sieve or otherwise discard the cloves, cinnamon and lemon rind.
5. Taste, adding a little extra sugar if you think it needs it.
6. Serve in heat resistant glasses or cups.

Spicy-baked Apples

What about spicy-baked apples as a quick and easy accompaniment for supper?

For Two:

• 2 apples
• 2 tablespoons brown sugar
• 1 teaspoon ground nutmeg
• 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
• 2-3 tablespoons dry cider

Directions

1. Core the apples.
2. Mix the brown sugar, cinnamon and nutmeg in a bowl.
3. Spoon the sugar mixture into the apples and pour cider over.
4. Place the apples in a deep casserole dish and cover.
5. Microwave for 3 1/2 to 4 minutes or until tender.
6. Let the apples sit for a couple minutes before serving.

To serve, top the apples with cream or pour over some mulled cider.

The Vineyards of the Coteaux du Loir and Jasnières

Domaine de Bellivière - terroir des Renaudes

Loir Valley Wine Route

Whilst there is a small wine-producing domaine just north of Alençon, the nearest major AOC region is to the south of Le Mans in the Loir (without an “e”) valley.  We passed a pleasant afternoon driving the Loir Valley Wine Route in late autumn; this was quite by accident after cutting short a planned visit to the town of Château-du-Loir (there’s not much there – not recommended!) following a late-season trip to the “Jardin d’Atmosphère” at St Biez-en-Belin.

Loir Valley Wine Route

I’m not a wine buff – this is purely a guide to help anyone wishing to visit some vineyards in the region and perhaps buy direct from the producer.

The Googlemap below shows the wine producers we found and where the main vineyards are located, with those possessing a decent website represented by a bunch of purple grapes and the others by green grapes. Several sell wine directly to the public, giving you a chance to taste before buying. Otherwise you can buy many of the same wines online or in wine merchants/cavistes in the towns around the region.

View Larger Map

There is a “route des vignes” clearly signposted along the Loir valley, which is how we found several of these vineyards.

The Vineyards of the Coteaux du Loir and Jasnières

The Coteaux du Loir AOC stretches across 16 communes in the Sarthe and 6 in d’Indre-et-Loire department, producing red, white and rosé wines.  However, only half of the communes that are entitled to produce AOC Coteaux du Loir actually make any wine, and the greatest concentration of vineyards is around the communes of Ruillé-sur-Loir, Poncé-sur-Loir, Lhomme, Chahaignes and Marçon.

Domaine les Maisons Rouges - Chenin Grapes with "noble rot" 2009

The Jasnières AOC is a sub-section of Coteaux du Loir; it is a dry white wine produced exclusively in the communes of Lhomme and Ruillé-sur-Loir.

All of the vineyards are located on the south-facing slopes, the banks and larger tributaries of the river Loir.

Coteaux du Loir

The Coteaux du Loir whites are similar to Jasnières:  same chenin blanc (also known as Pineau de la Loire) grape variety, same type of terrain and climate.  The best are indistinguishable to plebs like me from the better known (and more expensive) Jasnières.

The red wines from Coteaux du Loir use juice mainly from the Pineau d’Aunis, a local grape variety.  They are fairly pale red, smooth, fresh and raspberry-ish.

Rosés from Coteaux du Loir are predominantly from Pineau d’Aunis, light and fresh – pretty much like Rosé d’Anjou.

Domaine les Maisons Rouge, 5 Octobre 2009 : first day of picking

Jasnières

Jasnières is a dry white wine, yellowish in colour, flowery and fruity to smell, often with a mineral, flinty taste.  In the best vintage years, sweet wines are also produced in this area.

I’m told these wines age well – that they can take 10 to 15 years to reach their best and still remain fresh after 20 years.

Several Jasnières wines are labelled after their terroir (the parcel of land which produces the grape) : such as le Clos des Jasnières, le Clos des Molières, la Gidonière, le Clos Saint-Jacques, etc.

The Jasnières vineyards run in a line about 200 m wide for a distance of 5km on the south facing slopes of the Loir, through the communes of Lhomme and Ruillé-sur-Loir. This means that the vines enjoy the best sunshine and are protected from the north winds by the hills and the forest of Bercé.

Jasnières hillside (from www.jasnieres.fr)

To visit nearby

Special thanks to Elisabeth and Benoît Jardin of Domaine les Maisons Rouges, Eric et Christine Nicolas of Domaine de Bellivière and Paul Sindell of www.jasnieres.fr for the use of photos.

Château de Bénehard at Chahaignes – you can visit the grounds of this château, no charge, from July to September.  In the grounds is a 15th century wine press.

Musée de la Vigne, Lhomme – the museum has been recently renovated and reorganized and is situated in the centre of Lhomme.  It displays the tools used by local wine-growers for working their vines and making wine and has a video showing the work of the last local barrel-maker. Open July to mid-September, Saturday and Sunday afternoons from 3pm to 6pm.

Gardens of the Château de Grand-Lucé – 17 acres of classic French gardens open April to September Sundays 10am – 6pm

Useful links:

www.maisonsrouges.com – wine producer
http://www.belliviere.com – wine producer (images © Studio Amarante)
www.coteauxduloir.fr – website of Coteaux du Loir producers
www.jasnieres.fr – website of Jasnières producers

You will find links to other vineyards by clicking on the Googlemap at the top of the article.