Polished pews at the back of the church … a velvety and voluptuous, sensuous and silky secret … a devilish delight with eyes closed and head tilted back in delectation … a wicked pleasure of self-indulgence …
Chocolat Glatigny, Alençon, Normandy
Chocolate Heaven in Normandy! Read more at VelvetEscape … http://velvetescape.com/
Posted in food and drink, normandy | Tagged alencon, chocolate, food and drink, normandy | Leave a Comment »
Just 4km from our chambres d’hôtes is the tiny commune and village of Bourg-le-Roi, on the border of Normandy and the Pays de la Loire, known for a particular form of incredibly delicate emroidery called “Point de Beauvais”.
Henry II Plantagenet made the decision in 1169 to build a fortified town at Bourg-le-Roi in order to protect his interests in the region. This characterful little village – which never grew to be the major city it was intended to be – has kept some significant architectural traces from that time, with fortified ramparts of a kind unique in the Sarthe and rare in all of France.
History has it that Point de Beauvais embroidery came to France via Italy, having arrived there via the China trade routes in the late middle ages.
This form of “linked stitch” embroidery became enormously popular from the 17th century, probably reaching its greatest heights in the 18th and carrying on well into the 20th century. A workshop was founded at Bourg-le-Roi by Margaret Boulard in 1840, and at its peak it was employing up to 60 home needleworkers. The last commercial embroidery workshop at Bourg-le-Roi closed its doors in 1968.
Example of Point de Beauvais
Part of the brief of the Association Tourisme et Culture of Bourg-le-Roi is to preserve and promote the art of Point de Beauvais embroidery, which is part of the historical fabric (pardon the pun) of the community.
The Musée du Point de Beauvais counts among its exhibits a 12m long embroidered frieze tracing the history of the commune of Bourg le Roi between 50BC and 1450AD, examples of embroidered ecclésiastial vestments, wall hangings, tablecloths and items of clothing decorated with Point de Beauvais needlework. There is also a video to show the technique, and practical demonstrations each weekend in season.
One weekend each May the association and the Museé du Point de Beauvais organise an embroidery fair, featuring articles for sale and demonstrations of many types of needlework. We’ve been to this and can vouch that it is extremely popular and well-attended by people from many departments of France.
The association also organises about forty embroidery courses each year, for a maximum of 3 people each, open to novices and experienced neddleworkers alike. These take place in the museum itself.
Yvette Bertaux, one of the former workers at the commercial embroidery workshops of de Bourg-le-Roi, is one of the teachers. In an interview with a regional paper she explained, “I made my first few stitches in 1953, a beginner just like the people I teach today; it takes a great dexterity of hand and you have to persevere to go through three or four practical courses to learn the basics”.
Point de Beauvais embroidery, unlike some other forms such as Luneville, is worked with the right side of the workpiece uppermost. The pattern is traced onto paper, which is pierced all along the tracing lines with a needle; then ink is stencilled through the holes onto the cloth, which is stitched and held onto a workframe. The thread is worked from beneath the cloth using a very fine crochet hook, resembling a regular needle, to push and pull the thread, forming interlocking loops on the top surface and making a real “chain stitch”.
The best examples of the work can resemble paintings, since the Point de Beauvais technique allows many colours to be worked and combined, as finely as the embroiderer wishes, and the stitches can be very tightly worked together.
Museum
76 rue du point de Beauvais
72610 Bourg-le-Roi
Tel : 02.33.26.80.69
Open from 15h to 18h30
Contact Colette Mezenge, President of the Association Tourisme et Culture of Bourg-le-Roi
Tel : 02.33.82.70.72.
Three experienced embroiderers run the actual courses: Yvette Bertaux, Ginette Besnard and Lucienne Mondion. All necessary work materials and tools are provided.
Each 9 hour course takes place over a day and a half and costs 95€
Posted in arts and crafts | Tagged arts and crafts, bourg le roi, embroidery, point de beauvais | Leave a Comment »
During our “vacation” we made a day trip to Rouen last week, the capital of Normandy. The weather in late October was not at its kindest – trust us to chose the dampest day of the week – but we were still blown away by the beauty of the old town centre.
We parked in the car park of “le Vieux Tour” which is just a minute’s walk away from the Cathedral and the Rouen Tourist Office, which we caught before it closed for lunch. We hired a couple of audio-guide handsets and set off to explore the town – the video shows some of the sights we saw along the way. If this is your first visit to Rouen we recommend the audio tour as it is clear, concise and comes with one of the clearest route maps we’ve seen for visits of this type.
Route of the Audio Guide Visit to Rouen
Rouen is justly famed for the magnificent Notre Dame Cathedral, which was the subject of over thirty paintings by Claude Monet – he secretly hid in lodgings above a ladies lingerie shop in the cathedral square in order to have the best view of the main façade of the Cathedral. The shop in question, formerly the House of the Exchequer, has an ornate facade and now houses the Rouen Tourist Office.
Rouen Cathedral
Outside, Rouen cathedral walls are smothered in fine stone sculptures, and the astonishing cathedral spire is the highest in France at over 150 metres tall. The interior of the cathedral is remarkably airy and light, the soaring spaces of the nave pierced by windows and arcades on four levels -the dimensions are truly stunning. The cathedral choir houses the tomb of Duke Rollon and another containing the heart of Richard the Lionheart, King of England and Duke of Normandy. The zig-zag stone staircase near the doorway to the library courtyard is wonderfully, ornately decorated.
Wandering medieval streets from the cathedral took us past tempting antique and art shops in the Rue Saint-Romain and into the Quartier Saint Maclou. Three-quarters of the population of the Saint Maclou quarter were wiped out by the Plague of 1348. Near the flamboyant Gothic church of Saint Maclou is the necropolis of the Aître Saint Maclou, a macabre courtyard, formerly an ossuary where the bones of plague victims were stacked. The black timberwork and gory carvings of skulls, bones and gravediggers tools are an unforgettable sight; a window at the entrance to the courtyard displays the mummified remains of a medieval cat that was found in the wall there – presumably as a charm against evil spirits.
Aître St Maclou Ossuary, Rouen
Passing more timber-framed medieval buildings, we came to the Abbey Church of Saint-Ouen. The exterior was undergoing some restoration work but inside, the stained glass windows were stunning, even in watery sunlight.
In the Rue des Juifs we saw the fabulous former Parliament of Normandy, now the Palais de Justice. Built mainly between 1300 and 1600, the buildings are adorned with superb stone carvings which have recently been restored to their former glory.
Normandy Parliament Building, Rouen - Detail
In the Place du Vieux Marché we saw the spot where Joan of Arc was burned at the stake following her trial and imprisonment in Rouen. Nearby a museum beneath the Church of Joan of Arc houses a museum with over 50 waxworks tracing the story of the Maid of Orléans. The Church is a large, modern structure which dominates the square, its unusual angular form representing the pyre on which Joan of Arc was burnt. Every year a weekend festival commemorates the trial and execution of Saint Joan at Rouen.
Joan of Arc - Burnt at the Stake in Place du Vieux Marché, Rouen
Not included in the audio-guide itinerary, but a short way off in the direction of the railway station, in the rue du Donjon, is the Tour Jeanne d’Arc, where Joan of Arc was brought in 1431 to be threatened with torture. Contrary to popular belief, she was imprisoned not in the tower but in a different part of the castle, of which this tower used to be a part.
The Museum of Fine Arts and Ceramics in the adjoining rue Morand contains a splendid collection of faïence and decorative porcelain, for which Rouen was renowned during the 16th to 18th centuries. There are many shops in the old town selling decorative Rouen faïence to this day.
In the same quarter is the Musée des Beaux-Arts de Rouen, an art museum with pictures of famous artists including Claude Monet, Sisley, Velazquez and Géricault. It includes examples of the Monet cathedral series.
Another museum in the Tour Jeanne d’Arc sector of the town, which unfortunately we did not visit (we hope to do so soon) is Le Secq des Tournelles, or Wrought Ironwork Museum. We’ve got a thing about decorative ironwork (yes, weird) but only found out about this place when we got home and read some of the brochures from the Rouen Tourist Office.
Continuing our audio-guide walk from the Place du Vieux Marché we passed by the Hôtel de Bourgtheroulde; according to the guide this is a “magnificent town house” (now a luxury hotel) whose courtyard contains “two sculptures of inestimable artisitc and historic value, the Triumphs of Petrarch and the Field of the Cloth of Gold”. We could not see these as the building is shrouded in scaffolding and does not reopen until spring 2010.
Rouen Gros Horloge
Heading back towards the Tourist Office we passed beneath the Gros Horloge, an astronomical clock whose present day features date back to the16th century but whose movement is even older (1389). We plan to return to see the interior, a guided tour of which takes 40 minutes and is said to take in superb views over the old town from the top of the adjoining bell tower.
Place de la Cathédrale
Rouen
Tel. 02 43 33 28 04
Hours:
May to September Mon-Sat 9am to 7pm, Sunday 9.30am to 12.30pm and 2pm to 6pm
October to April Mon-Sat 9.30am to 12.30pm and 1.30pm to 6pm, closed Sunday except special events
Access to Rouen:
Rouen is 1 hour 45 minutes (180km) north of our Bed & Breakfast Accommodation in Lower Normandy
Posted in normandy, sights, visits, towns | Tagged history, museum, normandy, rouen | Leave a Comment »
The wonderful little town of Sainte-Suzanne was brought to our attention over a year ago by some French guests who came across it whilst staying at our bed & breakfast – we were ashamed to confess that we had never heard of it, despite the fact it is only about 50km from us in the Mayenne (adjoining department in the Pays de la Loire).
It has taken us another year to actually visit it, which we did in mid-October – and now we wish we had done so earlier. This fortified “cité médiévale” in the region known as “les Coëvrons” really is deserving of that old cliché “hidden treasure”. Sainte Suzanne is wonderfully picturesque without being twee, well cared for, characterful and perched atop a rocky promontory dominating the valley of the river Erve, 250 feet below.
It is not difficult to see why this spot was chosen to build a major fortress, as its position gives it both natural defences and wide views over the surrounding countryside. Accordingly, the town of Sainte Suzanne has a rich military history.
Sainte-Suzanne Château
The castle keep (donjon) was built in the 11th century and Sainte Suzanne boasts it was the only town that successfully resisted an attack by William the Conqueror, who laid siege to it from 1083 to 1087. During the prolonged siege, William built a huge military camp on the outskirts of the town, possibly taking advantage of an earlier Gallo-Roman earthworks; a reconstruction is on view in the town museum and the amazingly well-preserved remains can be seen at the site known as Camp de Beugy, 800m north of the town on the road to Assé-le-Bérenger. It is also known as the “Camp des Anglais” - King William and his army were regarded by this time as English, not Norman.
The town of Sainte-Suzanne remained impervious to attackers for another three centuries, until during the 100 Years War the castle fell into English hands for 14 years before being re-taken by the French Lord of Bueil. From the 17th century onwards the town’s prosperity grew and in the eighteenth century it became an administrative centre for the region. The city underwent another economic surge thanks to numerous paper, flour, wool and tanning mills powered by the river Erve and by the mid-19th century it had over 1 800 inhabitants; it returned to a primarily agricultural economy in the 20th century.
An audio-guide of Sainte Suzanne can be hired from the museum inside the château – the cost is a very reasonable 2€ per headset.
The castle ramparts and 11th century keep are open to the public free of charge; entry to the logis (residence of the early 17th century) is 4€ for adults. We found it very interesting, with some super models, religious artefacts, “son et lumière” and interactive displays in both French and English, themed on the history and development of the Mayenne. Opening hours:
Inside the town itself you can get a town map from the Tourist Office. Oddly, the Tourist office does not rent out the audio-guide. Opening hours:
Tel. : 02.43.01.43.60
Museum of the Auditoire
This was closed at the time of our visit in mid-October. Opening hours:
There are signposted walks and cycle routes to explore the valleys round about the town. The walk up to the Tertre Ganne takes you to a superb vantage point on the hill opposite the town, and a great place for a picnic.
Sainte Suzanne from the Tertre Ganne
There are also guided walks, including one that sounds interesting – it explores the various watermills along the Erve. Starts at the museum in the town at 2.45pm each Sunday from March to November. We took a walk along part of the river unguided.
Mills along the River Erve
The “Camp des Anglais” is is 1 km away on the road to Assé le Béranger and is the site where William the Conqueror constructed a fortress during the siege of Sainte-Suzanne. Also marked as “Camp de Beugy”, the earthworks and defensive ditches are well preserved, and you can explore them on foot.
Camp de Beugy (Camp des Anglais)
The “Dolmen des Erves” is 3 km away on the same road to Assé le Béranger. This is the earliest proof of people living in this region and dates to 4500 BC.
Dolmen des Erves
“La Ferte-Clairbois” near Sainte-Suzanne is a reconstruction of a wooden medieval fort with towers, keep, drawbridge, and so on; Sundays from Easter to October it stages a storming of the “castle”, jousting and sword fighting. A “medieval banquet” can be taken by reservation in a nearby auberge (ask at the Tourist Office in Sainte Suzanne).
La Ferte-Clairbois
Sainte-Suzanne is 55km (c. 50 minutes) away from our B&B on the Normandy-Pays de Loire border, driving via Sillé-le-Guillaume.
Posted in sights, visits, towns | Tagged history, mayenne, pays de la loire, Sainte-Suzanne, town | 1 Comment »
This travel Q and A article in the NYT was recently brought to my attention:
TravelBy By David G. AllanPublished: October 6, 2009“I am thinking of going to Paris Thanksgiving week and would love to spend two days in Normandy with a trip to Mont-St.-Michel. Is two days enough to see these sites?”
The author of the article says “Two days for the highlights of Normandy is tight” – tight???? Sorry, but I think you’re barely going to scratch the surface in two days! However, with inspired insight the author goes on to give a brief description of Mont St Michel and some links to info on the D-Day Beaches.
Unfortunately, when someone says they are “visiting Normandy” that is usually just what they mean – they are going to visit a handful of the D-Day sites and/or Mont Saint Michel, with Bayeux perhaps thrown in for good measure if they are really adventurous. Just have a look at the comments after the article to see the proof of this.
It is not the public’s fault – after all, these are the best known sites – but wouldn’t it be nice, once in a while, to see a good, intelligent travel article which mentions something other than the obvious? Why could this travel writer not take the opportunity to open readers’ eyes to at least a couple of other possibilities, rather than rehashing the same old stuff? I know it was a brief Q and A, but it could have mentioned, however briefly, at least a couple of other options.
In a moment of frustration, I dashed off this response in the “Comments” section of the article – still awaiting moderation. I may have been harsh, I most certainly was hasty. What do you think?
For the most part, these ideas for “Normandy” are somewhat narrow in scope. D-Day beaches, Bayeux and Mont St Michel are the usual clichés but amount to about 5% of what there is to see.
There are wonderful chateaux (Champ de Bataille, Carrouges, Beaumesnil, Sassy, Vendeuvre and loads more), medieval forts like Richard the Lionheart’s at Les Andelys and William the Conqueror’s at Falaise.
Great gardens to visit (Monet’s the best known but many more interesting ones like the Jardin Plume).
Superb churches and cathedrals like those at Sées, Alençon and Rouen – many people rate the latter above Notre Dame Paris.
The “bocage” (countryside typified by farmland being a mix of hedgerowed fields and woodland) of the Auge is littered with wonderful picturesque villages and towns, like Vimoutiers. Plus the famous “cheese” villages of Camembert, Livarot, Neufchâtel-en-Bray.
Then there are the seaside towns of Honfleur, Deauville, etc., and the fantastic coastline such as the cliffs of Etretat.
And never mind that there’s all of Upper Normandy, north of the Seine, as well!
“Doing Normandy” in two days lets you squeeze in a visit to a few of the sites on the D-Day beaches plus MSM – but please don’t think that that represents Normandy. There’s an awful lot more to it!
There – that’s that off my chest! For those who are in search of fresh ideas for Normandy, I’ll be continuing to spread the word about other sights and places to visit in Lower Normandy as well as the Pays de la Loire.
With thanks to one of my good friends on Twitter @TorreviejaVilla for bringing the article to my attention!
Posted in normandy, sights, visits | Tagged D-Day, Mont St Michel, normandy | 2 Comments »
