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Normandy – once you’ve done the Beaches and MSM there’s not much to see, is there?


This travel Q and A article in the NYT was recently brought to my attention:

Travel
By By David G. Allan
Published: October 6, 2009
“I am thinking of going to Paris Thanksgiving week and would love to spend two days in Normandy with a trip to Mont-St.-Michel. Is two days enough to see these sites?”

The author of the article says “Two days for the highlights of Normandy is tight” – tight???? Sorry, but I think you’re barely going to scratch the surface in two days!  However, with inspired insight the author goes on to give a brief description of Mont St Michel and some links to info on the D-Day Beaches.

Unfortunately, when someone says they are “visiting Normandy” that is usually just what they mean – they are going to visit a handful of the D-Day sites and/or Mont Saint Michel, with Bayeux perhaps thrown in for good measure if they are really adventurous.    Just have a look at the comments after the article to see the proof of this.

It is not the public’s fault – after all, these are the best known sites – but wouldn’t it be nice, once in a while, to see a good, intelligent travel article which mentions something other than the obvious?  Why could this travel writer not take the opportunity to open readers’ eyes to at least a couple of other possibilities, rather than rehashing the same old stuff? I know it was a brief Q and A, but it could have mentioned, however briefly, at least a couple of other options.

In a moment of frustration, I dashed off this response in the “Comments” section of the article – still awaiting moderation. I may have been harsh, I most certainly was hasty. What do you think?

For the most part, these ideas for “Normandy” are somewhat narrow in scope. D-Day beaches, Bayeux and Mont St Michel are the usual clichés but amount to about 5% of what there is to see.

There are wonderful chateaux (Champ de Bataille, Carrouges, Beaumesnil, Sassy, Vendeuvre and loads more), medieval forts like Richard the Lionheart’s at Les Andelys and William the Conqueror’s at Falaise.

Great gardens to visit (Monet’s the best known but many more interesting ones like the Jardin Plume).

Superb churches and cathedrals like those at Sées, Alençon and Rouen – many people rate the latter above Notre Dame Paris.

The “bocage” (countryside typified by farmland being a mix of hedgerowed fields and woodland) of the Auge is littered with wonderful picturesque villages and towns, like Vimoutiers. Plus the famous “cheese” villages of Camembert, Livarot, Neufchâtel-en-Bray.

Then there are the seaside towns of Honfleur, Deauville, etc., and the fantastic coastline such as the cliffs of Etretat.

And never mind that there’s all of Upper Normandy, north of the Seine, as well!

“Doing Normandy” in two days lets you squeeze in a visit to a few of the sites on the D-Day beaches plus MSM – but please don’t think that that represents Normandy. There’s an awful lot more to it!

There – that’s that off my chest!  For those who are in search of fresh ideas for Normandy, I’ll be continuing to  spread the word about other sights and places to visit in Lower Normandy as well as the Pays de la Loire.

With thanks to one of my good friends on Twitter @TorreviejaVilla for bringing the article to my attention!

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US Cemetary at Colleville-s/Mer, Omaha Beach

US Cemetary at Colleville-s/Mer, Omaha Beach

There are many rumours going around saying that D-Day commemorative events are being cancelled, blocked off from the general public etc. due to the President’s visiting Normandy D-Day sites in June 2009.

The only places he is expected to visit – and hence to be seriously affected by major security measures – are the American Cemetery and Colleville Beach on 6th June.

As far as I can ascertain, the American cemetery will be open to visitors as usual before and after his visit on 6th June BUT YOU WILL NEED A SECURITY PASS, OBTAINED IN ADVANCE, IF YOU WANT TO VISIT THESE SITES ON 6TH JUNE.

There is an article (in French) from the regional newspaper reproduced online here: Journal Ouest France .

So basically, the current situation is that Obama is likely to visit the US cemetery and the landing beach at Colleville on June 6th 2009 and access to these will be severely restricted.

No other events have been confirmed as part of President Obama’s visit.

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ljt

The Liberty Jump Team from the USA runs a number of historical aircraft and will be making a series of appearances at the Normandy D-Day 65 events.

The team has jumped in Normandy every year since it formed in 2006, initially at the request from the local mayor and the KERDUN organization in Carentan, France.  They invited Dominique Launay – President of LJT and SR Jump Instructor – to perform a commemorative jump for their LIBERTY Airborne Festival for D-Day ceremonies that year.  A group of jumpers from various organizations came together and executed the jump from a C-47 ‘Drag Em Oot’ to a crowd of over 7,000 people.  They also jumped in Amfreville that same week.

The decision was taken by the original team members to form a permanent group; the LJT is now primarily made up of active duty, retired or reserve Military, with male and female members drawn from the USA, France, Canada, England, Ireland, Holland and Belgium.

For 2009 65th Anniversary of D-Day the team is planning to jump from a C-47 on:

June 4th – Angoville au Plain between 11h00 and 16h00 depending on winds

June 5th – Amfreville DZ ‘D’ 22h30

June 7th – La Fiere – preceding the Military jumps – 12h00

The  Team will be staying, as they do each year, at the CCAS campgrounds in Quineville – they attend and participate in the Quineville commemorative ceremonies each year.

The LJT also sponsors and hosts the travel of some American war veterans each year to Normandy- this year they will bring

  • Ralph Manley – 501 PIR
  • Bob and Debbie Beardon – 507 PIR.  Bob is author of  ‘ To D-Day and Back ‘ and will be at the jumps: visitors and spectators have the chance to purchase his books there as well as in Quineville.
  • Chet Graham - 508 PIR Chet will travel with one of the LJT members Leland Burns (son of Dwayne Burns of the 508 PIR, together they wrote ‘Jump Into the Valley’)

The team’s base and jump training operations are located in Bristow, Oklahoma.  For more information on the Liberty Jump Team visit their website www.libertyjumpteam.org

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Royal British Legion Announces Plans for D-Day 65

www.britishlegion.org.uk

Celebrations on both sides of the English Channel will mark the 65th anniversary of the Normandy Landings, the start of the most decisive battle in modern history, as heroes from D-Day and today are honoured by The Royal British Legion.

On Saturday, 6th June 2009 – or “D-Day 65″ – the Legion will be taking heroes from D-Day and today to the Normandy beaches in honour of the 165,000 Allied Forces who took part in the landings.

The D-Day heroes will also take part in commemorative services organised by The Royal British Legion at the majestic Bayeux Cathedral in Normandy, the spiritual home of the Normandy Landings as well as the Norman Conquest nearly 900 years earlier.

A beach in Normandy, used by British Forces in the invasion, will be planted with thousands of Union Flags chosen from among the 5.5 million that have been sent out by the Legion across the UK to be inscribed with messages of thanks and dedication.

The flag mail-out is part of a £2.5 million fundraising appeal in association with the D-Day anniversary, to further the work of the Legion in supporting veterans, Service personnel and their families.

Members of the public in England and Normandy will meanwhile be invited to a major outdoor celebration, picnic, and pop concert in Portsmouth, with additional picnics in Weymouth, Coventry and Christchurch. Picnics on both sides of the Channel are being organised by the Legion in partnership with Normandy Association and Normandy Association UK.

via The Royal British Legion – Heroes of D-Day and today join the Legion’s “D-Day 65” events.

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Bayeux Bessin Brochure D-Day 2009

Bayeux Bessin Brochure D-Day 2009

The Bayeux-Bessin tourist office has published its leaflet for the annual D-Day Commemoration Festival which will take place from Friday 5th to Sunday 7th June 2009. More events are listed on the page d-day-65th-anniversary-events-2009.

“The night they arrived” – Friday 5th June – Longues-sur-Mer and Port-en-Bessin.

Lighting-up of the coast (25 fireworks displays along 50 miles of coastline). A series of magnificent fireworks displays up and down the coast at 11pm : nearest to Bayeux-Bessin are the site of the German Battery in Longues-sur-Mer, which overlooks the D-Day Landing beaches, and at the harbour in Port-en-Bessin.
Organised by Normandie Mémoire/towns of Port-en-Bessin and Longues-sur-Mer.

“In the footsteps of the 47th British commando” – Saturday 6th June – Between Asnelles and Port-en-Bessin.

From 9am until 5pm, a 13 mile long walk in the footsteps of the British soldiers who liberated Port-en-Bessin, on the 7th June. Picnic at Longues-sur-Mer with a jazz concert, a talk describing the story of D-Day and a chance to meet with the veterans of the 47th British commando. Bring your own picnic and wear walking shoes.
Organised by Bayeux-Bessin tourist office.

“Liberation evening” – Saturday 6th June – Place De Gaulle in Bayeux.

From 6.30pm, a big evening dedicated to veterans in Bayeux, the first liberated town in France. Music and dancing, concert featuring the London Community Gospel Choir (food and refreshments available on site).
Organised by the Town of Bayeux.

“Liberation picnic” – Sunday 7th June – the harbour in Port-en-Bessin.

From 1pm, a big picnic with musical entertainment.
Organised by the Town of Port-en-Bessin.

“Bayeux, first liberated town in France” – Sunday 7th June – Bayeux.

At 3pm, in the centre of Bayeux, a major parade of 250 vehicles, which made the legend of the landing and the liberation of France.
Organised by theTown of Bayeux and Bayeux-Bessin tourist office.

OFFICE DE TOURISME BAYEUX-BESSIN
Bayeux – 02 31 51 28 28
Longues-sur-mer – 02 31 21 46 87
Port-en-bessin – 02 31 22 45 80

http://www.bayeux-bessin-tourism.com/

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