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Diversions around Rouen due to Bridge Closure

First published November 9 2012, updated and republished February 28 2013.

Until further notice there are diversions around Rouen, heading both north and south, as the main bridge for vehicles over the Seine at Rouen has been closed due to an accident. In October 2012 a petrol tanker crossed the central reservation, crashed and caught fire on the Pont Mathilde; several vehicles beneath the bridge were destroyed in the conflagration and while no-one was seriously injured, the damage to the bridge was severe.

Since October an emergency circulation plan banning HGVs from certain routes through the city has been implemented and the bridge is closed to all traffic. Diversion signs are in place and the bridge will remain closed while repairs are carried out during 2013.

Suggested routes in and around Rouen:

The diversion routes suggested for cars are shown below. We have tried the Rouen north-south diversion in both directions while travelling to and from La Basse Cour and it poses few problems (in fact we found it more pleasant with fewer traffic lights and junctions) though it does take a few minutes longer. We tried it northbound around lunchtime and southbound shortly after lunchtime, on a weekday each time. We may actually make this our regular route for the annual return to visit family in the UK as it is less stop-start than the normal route and misses the horrible industrial estate rat-run with all its roundabouts and traffic lights.

  • Coming on the A28 from the north to Rouen, the diversion route takes the A29 in the direction of Amiens and Le Havre, then the A151 in the direction of Rouen, then the A150. If you are heading south to Le Mans/Bordeaux etc. you then pick up the A13 west to Le Havre and shortly turn south on the A28, or earlier onto the N438 if you want to avoid the A28 tolls. We think the tolls are well worth it as the A28 is speedy and hassle free, unlike the N438. Whichever you choose, just be alert to be in the correct lane and follow the diversion signs! Heading north is the same route around Rouen in reverse, also with diversion signs.
  • Coming on the A13 from Paris to Caen, the suggested route is A139, RN138 /338 and then into Rouen on the A150, A151 and A29.
  • On the left bank quays of Rouen from East to West, traffic is allowed from the quay Cavelier de la Salle to Boulevard Béthencourt.

Rouen Diversions

More photos and an article translated from French are available here:

Pont Mathilde Article

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Diversions around Rouen due to Bridge Closure

Until further notice there are diversions around Rouen, heading both north and south, as the main bridge for vehicles over the Seine at Rouen has been closed due to an accident.  In October 2012 a petrol tanker crossed the central reservation, crashed and caught fire on the Pont Mathilde; several vehicles beneath the bridge were destroyed in the conflagration and while no-one was seriously injured, the damage to the bridge was severe.

Since October an emergency circulation plan banning HGVs from certain routes through the city has been implemented and the bridge is closed to all traffic.  Diversion signs are in place and the bridge will remain closed while repairs are carried out during 2013.

Suggested routes in and around Rouen:

The diversion routes suggested for cars are shown below.  We have tried the Rouen north-south diversion in both directions while travelling to and from La Basse Cour and it poses few problems (in fact we found it more pleasant with fewer traffic lights and junctions) though it does take a few minutes longer.  We tried it northbound around lunchtime and southbound shortly after lunchtime, on a weekday each time.  We may actually make this our regular route for the annual return to visit family in the UK as it is less stop-start than the normal route and misses the horrible industrial estate rat-run with all its roundabouts and traffic lights.

  • Coming on the A28 from the north to Rouen, the diversion route takes the A29 in the direction of Amiens and Le Havre, then the A151 in the direction of Rouen, then the A150.  If you are heading south to Le Mans/Bordeaux etc. you then pick up  the A13 west to Le Havre and shortly turn south on the A28, or earlier onto the N438 if you want to avoid the A28 tolls. We think the tolls are well worth it as the A28 is speedy and hassle free, unlike the N438.  Whichever you choose, just be alert to be in the correct lane and follow the diversion signs!  Heading north is the same route around Rouen in reverse, also with diversion signs.
  • Coming on the A13 from Paris to Caen, the suggested route is A139, RN138 /338 and then into Rouen on the A150, A151 and A29.
  • On the left bank quays of Rouen from East to West, traffic is allowed from the quay Cavelier de la Salle to Boulevard Béthencourt.

Rouen Diversions

More photos and an article translated from French are available here:

Pont Mathilde Article

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Joan of Arc Festival, Rouen, Sunday 30th May 2010

Joan's Trial at Rouen

Joan's Trial at Rouen

    About an hour north of Alençon via the A28 lies the beautiful medieval city of Rouen on the River Seine.

Each year on the last Sunday of May, Rouen hosts ‘The Joan of Arc Festival’ to commemorate the trial and execution of Joan of Arc.  When we visited it, the festival featured a medieval market with traditional crafts, a “Middle Ages” tavern (take that with a large pinch of salt!), street entertainers and dancers.

It was in Rouen on 30 May 1431 that Joan of Arc was tried by the English and executed by burning at the stake.  One of her crimes was to have worn men’s clothing (trousers). The wearing of trousers by women is still technically an offence in Paris (though there are plans to repeal this arcane law)!

After she had been burned alive, Joan’s ashes were scattered in the River Seine.

On the Sunday of the festival a procession makes its way to Rouen’s Boieldieu Bridge where bouquets of flowers are tossed into the river Seine, at the exact point where Joan’s ashes were dispersed.  In the afternoon, a mass is celebrated in St. Joan’s memory at Notre-Dame Cathedral in the town centre.  Throughout May, up until June 6th 2010, there are further commemorative masses at churches across Rouen – known as the city of a hundred bell towers.

Joan of Arc Festival, Rouen

Joan of Arc Festival, Rouen

Sites in Rouen related to Joan of Arc

From the Pucelle’s Tower to the Boieldieu Bridge, a pathway retraces the final months of Joan of Arc’s life.  This walk is also an opportunity to discover the places and works of art in Rouen that commemorate Joan’s story.

Where Joan of Arc was Burned at the Stake

  • Pucelle’s Tower – 102 Rue Jeanne d’arc – the remains of a 13th Century castle, built by Philippe Auguste and at the time occupied by the English, where Joan of Arc was imprisoned before her trial when she came to Rouen.
  • Remains of the castle keep on Rue du Donjon (also known as the Tour Jeanne-d’Arc or Joan of Arc Tower) where she was imprisoned after her trail.
  • The Place du Vieux-Marché – a flower garden behind the church and museum now marks the place where she was burned
  • Boieldieu Bridge – where her ashes were scattered into the River Seine
  • The Joan of Arc Museum, on the Place du Vieux-Marché.

There is also a Joan of Arc Room in Rouen’s art museum, which has works depicting Joan of Arc and her life.

Joan of Arc Church & Museum, Pl. du Vieux Marché

The Story of Joan of Arc

Joan of Arc Tower, Rouen

Joan of Arc Tower, Rouen

The Hundred Years War (Guerre de Cent Ans) was waged sporadically from 1337 to 1453 between rivals for the French throne, which was vacant following the death of the last of the Capetian line of French kings in 1328.  The two main contenders were the House of Valois and the House of Plantagenet, also known as the House of Anjou.  The House of Valois claimed the title of King of France, while the Plantagenets from England claimed to be Kings of France and England. The Plantagenet Kings, although based at this time in England, had their roots in the French regions of Anjou and Normandy. French soldiers fought on both sides, with Burgundy and Aquitaine providing support for the English Plantagenets.

Towards the end of this period, the French king Charles VI suffered from fits of madness and numerous plots and intrigues racked the kingdom.  The French army was finally defeated by Henry V of England at Agincourt in 1415.  In 1420 following the assassination of John the Fearless of Burgundy, his son Philip the Good and Henry V of England formed an alliance under the Treaty Of  Troyes.  Under this agreement,  Charles VI’s son was excluded from succession to the French crown (Philip of Burgundy believing that Charles VI’s son had been behind his father’s assasination) and Henry V married Catherine of Valois, Charles VI’s daughter, to consolidate his claim to the crown after Charles VI’s death. However, in 1422, a few weeks before Charles VI’s death, Henry V himself died, leaving a son and heir who was barely 10 months old.  Henry V’s brother acted as regent for the infant Henry VI.  Talk about a mess!

By now most of northern France, including Paris, and the south-west region of Aquitaine were under English and Burgundian joint rule.

Joan of Arc at Orleans and Reims

It was at this time that Joan of Arc, born in 1412 to a family of farm labourers, came to revive rival French claims to the throne.  In 1424 she claimed she heard God’s voice telling her to help the dauphin, Charles VI’s son, to regain the throne.  Backed by the nobleman Robert de Baudricourt, she reached Chinon in 1429 and convinced the dauphin to allow her to lead an army to attempt to liberate Orleans, which was then under siege by the English.  Following a series of daring raids on English strongholds she liberated the city in May 1429.  She now joined forces with the army of Duke John II of Alençon and after a dramatically successful drive north to Reims,  taking numerous towns from the English along the way,  in July the dauphin was crowned Charles VII in Reims.  During all of this time, Joan continued to have “visions” which guided her actions.

Joan of Arc’s Capture

Charles VII next allowed Joan to lead an army to try to retake Paris.  This attempt ended in failure and Joan was forced to retreat, but continued to campaign elsewhere.  However, in May 1430 Joan was taken prisoner near Compiegne by the Burgundians.  Charles neglected to ransom her freedom and she was eventually sold to the English and brought to Rouen, where she was tried for witchcraft and heresy, based on her claims to have been guided by visions.  The city of Rouen had been under English rule since 1419.  She was imprisoned in the Pucelle’s Tower, also known nowadays as the Joan of Arc Tower.

The Trial

The trial began on 9 February 1431. The prosecution was conducted by Cauchon, Bishop of Beauvais, and despite no real evidence or a properly obtained confession, she was found guilty of heresy.  Whilst she was still imprisoned Cauchon opened a second trial for “relapsed heresy” on 28 May, double heresy being a crime punishable by death.  In due course thecourt handed down a sentence of death by burning at the stake.

Burning at the Stake

On 30 May 1431, at the Place du Vieux-Marché, or Old Market Square, Joan was burned alive before a large crowd.  Although supposedly a heretic, she was granted Holy Eucharist and, while tied to the stake, she asked for and was given a cross.

When all was over,  Joan’s ashes were scattered in the River Seine at the foot of the Boieldieu Bridge at Rouen, so that no relics could be preserved.

“Rehabilitation”

In 1455 Joan’s mother obtained permission from the Pope to have the heresy verdict re-examined. A “rehabilitation” trial was held at Rouen and, on 7 July, 1456, the formal rehabilitation was pronounced in a ceremony at Saint-Ouen cemetery. In their revised verdict, the judges proclaimed that the city of Rouen should erect a cross on the site of Joan’s execution.

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Rouen, Normandy

Rouen – a Day Trip

During our “vacation” we made a day trip to Rouen last week, the capital of Normandy.  The weather in late October was not at its kindest – trust us to chose the dampest day of the week – but we were still blown away by the beauty of the old town centre.

We parked in the car park of “le Vieux Tour” which is just a minute’s walk away from the Cathedral and the Rouen Tourist Office, which we caught before it closed for lunch.  We hired a couple of audio-guide handsets and set off to explore the town – the video shows some of the sights we saw along the way.  If this is your first visit to Rouen we recommend the audio tour as it is clear, concise and comes with one of the clearest route maps we’ve seen for visits of this type.

Video of Rouen Town Centre Walk

Route of the Audiotour of Rouen

Route of the Audio Guide Visit to Rouen

Rouen’s Famous Sites

Rouen is justly famed for the magnificent Notre Dame Cathedral, which was the subject of over thirty paintings by Claude Monet – he secretly hid in lodgings above a ladies lingerie shop in the cathedral square in order to have the best view of the main façade of the Cathedral.  The shop in question, formerly the House of the Exchequer, has an ornate facade and now houses the Rouen Tourist Office.

Rouen Cathedral

Rouen Cathedral

Outside, Rouen cathedral walls are smothered in fine stone sculptures, and the astonishing cathedral spire is the highest in France at over 150 metres tall. The interior of the cathedral is remarkably airy and light, the soaring spaces of the nave pierced by windows and arcades on four levels -the dimensions are truly stunning.  The cathedral choir houses the tomb of  Duke Rollon and another containing the heart of Richard the Lionheart, King of England and Duke of Normandy.  The zig-zag stone staircase near the doorway to the library courtyard is wonderfully, ornately decorated.

Wandering medieval streets from the cathedral took us past tempting antique and art shops in the Rue Saint-Romain and into the Quartier Saint Maclou.  Three-quarters of the population of the Saint Maclou quarter were wiped out by the Plague of 1348. Near the flamboyant Gothic church of Saint Maclou is the necropolis of the Aître Saint Maclou, a macabre courtyard, formerly an ossuary where the bones of plague victims were stacked.  The black timberwork and gory carvings of skulls, bones and gravediggers tools are an unforgettable sight; a window at the entrance to the courtyard displays the mummified remains of a medieval cat that was found in the wall there – presumably as a charm against evil spirits.

Aître St Maclou Ossuary

Aître St Maclou Ossuary, Rouen

Passing more timber-framed medieval buildings, we came to the Abbey Church of Saint-Ouen.  The exterior was undergoing some restoration work but inside, the stained glass windows were stunning, even in watery sunlight.

In the Rue des Juifs we saw the fabulous former Parliament of Normandy, now the Palais de Justice.  Built mainly between 1300 and 1600, the buildings are adorned with superb stone carvings which have recently been restored to their former glory.

IMG_2794

Normandy Parliament Building, Rouen - Detail

In the Place du Vieux Marché we saw the spot where Joan of Arc was burned at the stake following her trial and imprisonment in Rouen.  Nearby a museum beneath the Church of Joan of Arc houses a museum with over 50 waxworks tracing the story of the Maid of Orléans.  The Church is a large, modern structure which dominates the square, its unusual angular form representing the pyre on which Joan of Arc was burnt.  Every year a weekend festival commemorates the trial and execution of Saint Joan at Rouen.

Joan of Arc - Site of the Pyre

Joan of Arc - Burnt at the Stake in Place du Vieux Marché, Rouen

Not included in the audio-guide itinerary, but a short way off in the direction of the railway station, in the rue du Donjon, is the Tour Jeanne d’Arc, where Joan of Arc was brought in 1431 to be threatened with torture.  Contrary to popular belief, she was imprisoned not in the tower but in a different part of the castle, of which this tower used to be a part.

The Museum of Fine Arts and Ceramics in the adjoining rue Morand contains a splendid collection of faïence and decorative porcelain, for which Rouen was renowned during the 16th to 18th centuries.  There are many shops in the old town selling decorative Rouen faïence to this day.

In the same quarter is the Musée des Beaux-Arts de Rouen, an art museum with pictures of famous artists including Claude Monet, Sisley, Velazquez and Géricault.  It includes examples of the Monet cathedral series.

Another museum in the Tour Jeanne d’Arc sector of the town, which unfortunately we did not visit (we hope to do so soon) is Le Secq des Tournelles, or Wrought Ironwork Museum.  We’ve got a thing about decorative ironwork (yes, weird) but only found out about this place when we got home and read some of the brochures from the Rouen Tourist Office.

Continuing our audio-guide walk from the Place du Vieux Marché we passed by the Hôtel de Bourgtheroulde; according to the guide this is a “magnificent town house” (now a luxury hotel) whose courtyard contains “two sculptures of inestimable artisitc and historic value, the Triumphs of Petrarch and the Field of the Cloth of Gold”.  We could not see these as the building is shrouded in scaffolding and does not reopen until spring 2010.

Rouen Gros Horloge

Rouen Gros Horloge

Heading back towards the Tourist Office we passed beneath the Gros Horloge, an astronomical clock whose present day features date back to the16th century but whose movement is even older (1389).  We plan to return to see the interior, a guided tour of which takes 40 minutes and is said to take in superb views over the old town from the top of the adjoining bell tower.

Practical Information

Tourist Office

Place de la Cathédrale
Rouen
Tel. 02 43 33 28 04

www.rouentourisme.com

Hours:
May to September Mon-Sat 9am to 7pm, Sunday 9.30am to 12.30pm and 2pm to 6pm

October to April Mon-Sat 9.30am to 12.30pm and 1.30pm to 6pm, closed Sunday except special events

Access to Rouen:

Rouen is 1 hour 45 minutes (180km) north of our Bed & Breakfast Accommodation in Lower Normandy

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